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Events | 2010.02.22

London Fashion Week kicks off with a touch of flower power

Two of the world\'s hottest designers, Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu, both unveil their floral collections at the event

Competition for the title of London Fashion Week\'s hottest ticket intensified today. A strong collection by the reigning champion, 27-year-old Christopher Kane, was matched frock-for-frock by a strong contender, Canadian-born Royal College of Art graduate Erdem Moralioglu.

Last September Sarah Brown, Samantha Cameron and actor Keira Knightley were all photographed wearing Erdem clothes, vastly boosting the profile of a designer who was little-known outside fashion industry circles. This season, the buzz around his show rivalled that of Kane, a Saint Martins graduate and long-term protegé of Donatella Versace.

Kane\'s collection of black leather and lace overstitched with meadow flowers and crystal starbursts , balanced androgynous touches (schoolboy-style shirt collars) with tight tailoring and lashings of bare thigh. It was a radical departure from last season\'s Little House on the Prairie gingham look that will have buyers rubbing their hands with glee. Kane\'s ability to project his unmistakable handwriting on to a new look gives every season a collector\'s item covetability. After the show, Natalie Massenet of netaporter.com praised Kane for capturing modern femininity. "He takes hard looks and brings romance, or takes something pretty and makes it tough."

At Erdem, the holographic florals for which the label is known, came in offbeat shades of teal and tobacco, cut into neat shifts, blouses, A-line skirts and coat-dresses. If there was a hint of the 1960s, it was never overwhelming: every piece looked as if it would work in a modern wardrobe.

Kane said he tried to conjure up "the spirit of a young Priscilla Presley", while Erdem said his designs were about "an elegant form of survival".


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